As the holiday season is upon us I would like to dedicate a moment to Sparkling wine. For some this is a wine that is only enjoyed on a holiday or special occasion and for others it is the drink of choice on a more regular basis. There is one thing for sure; it is always a good choice. The term Champagne is loosely used for all sparkling wine when in reality Champagne is a wine growing region in France, and to use this term accurately, the wine must be produced from grapes there. Sparkling wines not from the Champagne Region are simply just considered Sparkling wine from whatever region they may be from. For example Cava is a term to describe a specific Sparkling wine from Spain; Italy has Prosecco and so on. There is a lot to know about Champagne and its production but there are a few basics that help to understand the complex world of fine Sparkling Wine.
History- The Romans planted grapes around the city of Reims during the 5th century. French kings were originally anointed there and the wine from Champagne became the ceremonial wine. In 1662 methode Champenoise was officially created although there are records of Monks producing sparkling wine up to 100 years prior to 1662. Champagne originally was a lot sweeter than it is today and it wasn’t until Perrier Jouet did not sweeten his 1846 vintage than the Modern Brut was born.
Grapes- In Champagne the traditional varietals used are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Other grapes are allowed but are rarely ever used and those are Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris.
Styles-
Prestige Cuvee- This is usually a proprietary blend and considered to be the top wine of the certain producer. For example, Moet Chandon makes Dom Perignon, or Roederer makes Cristal and so on. Best of the Best!
Blanc de Blancs- Translated to white of whites. This wine is comprised of 100% Chardonnay and very rarely a little Pinot Blanc.
Blanc de Noir- Translated to white of blacks. This is wine made exclusively from red grapes. Because all grape juice runs clear, with minimal skin contact this wine made from red grapes stays a yellowish silver color.
Rose- This is another style of Sparkling wine were the producer will let the red grape skins macerate for a small amount of time leaving a pinkish hue on the wine.
Sweetness- So within each style the final wine also falls into a sweetness category. The ripeness level and the amount of sugar added in the dosage during secondary fermentation will affect the sweetness level.
The levels of sweetness, Dry to sweet are as follows (grams of residual sugar per liter):
Brut Zero- Less than 3 grams
Extra Brut- Less than 6 grams
Brut- (most common) Less than 12 grams
Extra Dry- between 12 and 17 grams
Sec- between 17 and 32 grams
Demi Sec- between 32 and 50 grams
Doux- 50 and above
Methods of Production-
Methode Champenoise- This is the traditional method in which Champagne is produced. Although there are many other methods of producing Champagne, this is the classic and most respected route. The wine undergoes a primary fermentation and before it is fully finished the wine is bottled. Secondary fermentation is then induced by adding a dosage of yeast and rock sugar. The Appellation dOrigine Controlee of Champagne then requires a minimum of 1 ½ years of bottle ageing. The bottle then goes through a remuage process where the lees (wine byproduct essentially) settle in the bottle of the neck. The bottles are adjusted slightly over a period of time to accumulate all the lees in the neck. When ready the bottle is then chilled so the lees in the neck freeze. After that, they pop out the frozen lees and a final amount of sugar depending on the desired sweetness level and then corked to finish.
Vintage vs. Non Vintage- Usually Champagne produces will use just from multiple years to create consistency amongst the flavor profile, but on really good growing years Produces will create a Millesime and the wine will be produced exclusively from a particular vintage.
Producers- Although there are many different producers in Champagne, I will just focus on two different groups of Producers.
Negociant Manipulant- These are the big companies that we all are familier with; (Moet Chandon, Louis Roederer, Clicquot and so on) they buy grapes through contracts with growers and produce and market the wine.
Recoltant Maninpulant- Also known as grower Champagne, this is a growing market and really unique Champagnes. These producers essentially grow their own grapes for their production although they are allowed to purchase up to 5% of their product. This increases your chances for more site specific wines creating more individuality in the wines.
Now that we are all experts on Champagne, we need to try a couple. Here are a few Champagnes and a Premium California Sparkling Wine available;
Veuve Clicquot N.V. Brut (59.99)- One of the most iconic Sparkling wines from Champagne. These grapes are pulled from over 50 growing areas throughout Champagne. The wine is generally comprised of 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Meunier although this blend can change slightly. This is just a classic N.V. Brut style champagne that has a toasty, citrus touch of vanilla flavor profile. A classic.
Pierre Peters Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs (59.99)- This is an example of a Grower Champagne. This wine is a blend of over 15 years of harvest all from Grand Cru villages in Cote des Blancs. Made from 100% Chardonnay, this Brut (6-7grams per liter) is a steal at $59.99. It has a pale color with a faint greenness which is common in Sparkling comprised entirely of Chardonnay. The flavor has a really bright citrus component complimented by fresh bread and finishing with a strong sense of mineral. A really complete wine that shows what Blanc de Blancs should be.
Schramsberg 2010 Blance de Blancs (39.99)- This is the first wine that Schramsberg produced in 1965. Small lots of Malolactic and barrel produced wines are blended in to enhance complexity. The wine is aged on its lees for about 2 years before disgorgement. This is a very vibrant; more fruit forward blanc de blancs yet maintains a high level of crispness and acidity. This is a real treat and definitely a great domestic option if Champagne maybe a little out of reach.
Monday, December 16, 2013
Saturday, December 14, 2013
Digestif Liqueurs (continued)
GALLIANO:
Is a sweet herbal liquor created by Arturo Vaccari of Livorno in Tuscany, Italy in 1896. It is named after Gusieppe Galliano, an Italian war hero. It is comprised of a number of ingredients, including vanilla, star anise, ginger, citrus, juniper, musk yarrow and lavender. These ingredients (sans vanilla) are pressed and infused into neutral alcohol and then distilled. The vanilla is then infused, and finally distilled water, refined sugar and neutral alcohol are blended in. Galliano is made to either 60 or 84.6 proof. (We carry the 84.6 proof version.) The final product has a vanilla/anise taste with herbal notes, and it is the vanilla that distinguishes it from other anise infused liqueurs. The brand was purchased by the distiller Lucas Bols of Holland, and is currently made there. It comes in the distinctive tall thin bottle, reminiscent of a Roman column. It is often consumed as an after meal digestif, or used as an ingredient in cocktails, the most well known being the Harvey Wallbanger. The recipe for a Harvey Wallbanger is to mix 6 parts orange juice with 3 parts vodka and ice in a tall glass, and float 1 part Galliano on top…garnish with an orange slice.
$22.99 for a 375ml bottle.
PIMM'S #1 CUP:
Pimm's #1 Cup is the original and most popular offering in what became a series of liqueurs known as fruit cups from the British based distiller. Pimm's #1 is gin based, with a secret mixture of herbs and liqueurs, and was created by James Pimm in 1823 to serve at his London oyster bar. It began large scale production in 1851, and by 1887 there was a chain of Pimm's oyster bars. Several other Pimm's cups were created over the years using different liquors as a base, but Pimm's #1 remains the most popular. The brand fell on hard times in the 1970's and 80's, and some of the other cups were phased out, but Pimm's #3 (brandy based and now known as Pimm's Winter Cup) and #6 (Vodka based) are still available. The brand changed hands several times over the years, and is now owned Diageo.
Pimm's #1 was originally produced to aid digestion after a meal as a digestif. It is dark reddish in color, and has a slight spice and citrus taste. It is still very popular today, mostly as a summer drink in England. It can be served on the rocks, or mixed with British style lemonade, (which is clear and carbonated) and even various chopped fruits.
$28.99 for a 750ml bottle. 50 proof.
CHARTREUSE:
Chartreuse is made according to a centuries old, secret formula of 130 herbs, plants and flowers mixed into a distilled alcohol base. It has a very strong taste, and is sweet with pungent spice and vegetal notes. It can be served straight, either chilled or at room temperature. It is also used in cocktails and is popular with hot chocolate at French ski resorts.
This liqueur has been made by the Carthusian monks of France since 1737. It is said that the original recipe was given to the order in Paris in 1605 by the French marshal Francois Hannibal d'Estrees, who called it the "elixir of long life." The recipe eventually made it to the order's headquarters at the Grand Chartreuse monastery in Voiron, France, where the monks began to produce chartreuse as a medicine. The recipe was enhanced in 1764 to what is now called Green Chartreuse, at 110 proof, which became very popular at the time. A second recipe was developed by the monks in 1838 for a Yellow Chartreuse, a sweeter saffron colored version at a lower proof of 80. The monks were expelled from France in 1903, and their distillery was confiscated by the government. The monks took refuge in Tarragona, Spain, bringing their secret recipe with them. They produced chartreuse there with a new label noting its Spanish production. Meanwhile, a corporation back in Voiron took over the distillery and began making their version of chartreuse, without the secret recipe. Their attempt failed, and when they faced bankruptcy in 1927, a group of local businessmen in Voiron bought them out and gave the business back to the monks as a gift. The monks were given tacit approval by the French government to produce again, and their expulsion was fully lifted after World War II, giving them full legal authority to produce again. Chartreuse is still made in Voiron today. The secret recipe is known only by 2 monks at any given time. These monks prepare the secret ingredients for the product that we carry today. We carry the green version at 110 proof. $39.99 for a 375ml bottle.
SAMBUCA:
Sambuca is an anise flavored Italian liqueur that comes in either a clear, red or black version. It is created by taking the essential oils from anise, star anise, licorice, elderflowers and other spices and adding them to a neutral alcohol base, along with a concentrated sugar solution. It is usually bottled at 42% alcohol by volume, or 84 proof. The first commercial version was produced by Luigi Manzi in Civitavecchia, Italy around the end of the 1800's. Angelo Molinari popularized the liqueur after World War II with his version, Sambuca Extra Molinari. It can be consumed warm or chilled, and is traditionally served with three coffee beans. We carry Sambuca Romana: $17.99 for a 375ml bottle.
Some of these you may know, and others may be new to you. Stop on in and let us help you find the right after dinner digestif for you!
Chip Bartsch
West Vail Liquor
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