Sake

SAKE
(or SHU in Japanese)

Sake, sometimes called rice wine, is Japan's contribution to the beverage world. However sake is more like beer than wine in its fermentation process, in that the starches in the rice need to be converted to sugar before they can be fermented by the yeast. Unlike most common beers, sake is much higher in alcohol at around 15%. Sake's origins date back to around the 3rd century AD, and it was Japan's most common alcoholic beverage until the 1960's, when it was overtaken by beer. However, as the consumption of sake in Japan has declined, the quality has improved.

Sake is made from 3 ingredients: rice, water and koji mold. The rice used in making sake differs from food rice in that it is larger and stronger, and contains less lipids and protein. The starch is at the center of the grain of rice, while the outer portion of the rice grain contains proteins, amino acids and fats that adversely affect fermentation, and lead to off flavors in sake. So this outer portion is milled away, leaving the polished center where the starches lie. In general, the more the outer portion is milled away, the higher the quality of the sake. Water is used throughout the process of making sake, from washing the rice, to the fermentation process and finally to dilute the final product in order to reduce the amount of alcohol in the sake. In general, harder water produces a drier sake, while soft water will produce a sweeter sake. Finally, there is this strange thing called koji mold. This magical mold creates enzymes that break down the starch in the rice into sugars which can be fermented by yeast.

The brewing process starts by milling the rice. The rice is then washed and soaked. The soaking takes anywhere from minutes to overnight, and the more the rice is milled the less time it takes to absorb the water. The rice is then steamed, and after it is cooled, some of the rice is sprinkled with the koji mold and is kept at higher than normal humidity and mixed for 36-45 hours. A yeast starter, or seed mash is then created using the finished koji rice along with more of the steamed rice, water and pure yeast cells. After about 2 weeks this starter is moved to larger vats where more rice, koji and water are added in three successive batches over four days, each roughly doubling the amount of the batch. The main mash is then fermented for the next 18-32 days under carefully controlled temperatures and conditions. The mash is then pressed to separate the unfermented solids from the clear sake. After resting for a few days to let more solids settle, the sake is usually charcoal filtered to adjust flavor and color. Sake that is not filtered is called nigori, and remains cloudy from the settled solids. Finally the sake is pasteurized to kill off bacteria and deactivate the enzymes that may affect color and flavor later on. The sake is then aged about 6 months to round out the flavor. After aging it is mixed with more water to bring the alcohol level down from roughly 20% to around 15-16% alcohol.

Sometimes distilled alcohol is added to the batch in the final stages. The makers of cheap sake add quite a bit of distilled alcohol to increase the yield. Higher end sake can also have added alcohol, but in very small amounts. This is to help bring out more aromatic and flavorful compounds from the mash, which are soluble in alcohol.

Sake has a distinct naming system to distinguish between its various grades of quality, determined by the amount the rice is polished and whether or not distilled alcohol has been added. In this system, the word Junmai is used to indicate that the sake has not had any alcohol added. From the lowest to highest quality, they are:

Honjozo-shu: Similar to table wine. Made with rice, water, koji and a small amount of added alcohol. It is light, fragrant and easy to drink.

Junmai-shu: Made with rice, water and koji. The rice kernel is polished to at least 70% (meaning at least 30% of the outer portion of the rice kernel is milled away.) It has a full, solid flavor and is clean and well structured.

Ginjo-shu: Made with rice, water and koji, and a small amount of alcohol. The rice kernel is polished to at least 60%. It is generally fermented at colder temperatures for longer periods of time, and is light, aromatic, fruity and refined.

Junmai Ginjo-shu: Made with rice, water and koji. The rice kernel is polished to at least 60%. Also fermented at colder temperatures for longer periods of time. Light, fruity and refined.

Daiginjo-shu: The highest classification of quality. Made with rice, water and koji, with a small amount of added alcohol. The rice kernel is polished to at least 50%. It is generally light, complex and very fragrant.

Junmai Daiginjo-shu: Also in the highest classification, but without added alcohol. The rice kernel is polished to at least 50%, and is also light, complex and fragrant.

Any of these sakes can be Nigori, or unfiltered and cloudy.

Sake can be consumed hot, cold or at room temperature. Generally cheaper sakes are the ones that are served hot, and it is more common to drink hot sake during the winter time. Higher end sake is generally served cold.

Chip Bartsch
Buyer
West Vail Liquor Mart